Posts Tagged ‘artwork’

Drawing artwork in perspective in Illustrator CS5 New Features from lynda.com

“Watch the entire course at www.lynda.com In Illustrator CS5 New Features, author Mordy Golding discusses noteworthy features and improvements in the latest upgrade of Adobe’s vector graphics editor and drawing program. This course includes overviews of perspective drawing, expressive bristle brushes, and variable-width strokes, as well as anti-aliasing features for web design, a new Artboards panel, improvements to symbols and drawing modes, and integration with Adobe Flash Catalyst.”
Video Rating: 4 / 5

Drawing artwork in perspective in Illustrator CS5 New Features from lynda.com

“Watch the entire course at www.lynda.com In Illustrator CS5 New Features, author Mordy Golding discusses noteworthy features and improvements in the latest upgrade of Adobe’s vector graphics editor and drawing program. This course includes overviews of perspective drawing, expressive bristle brushes, and variable-width strokes, as well as anti-aliasing features for web design, a new Artboards panel, improvements to symbols and drawing modes, and integration with Adobe Flash Catalyst.”

Q&A: What makes video art different from other kinds of artwork?

Question by pambinikki: What makes video art different from other kinds of artwork?

Best answer:

Answer by Peltier
The medium. Video.

Although similar to slide shows of old, video adds motion if you want it. Similar to film also but shown differently. One is shown on a screen, the other is shown on a TV set.

Add your own answer in the comments!

What is a good graphic design software to use to design logos and other artwork?

Question by KiKi0867: What is a good graphic design software to use to design logos and other artwork?
What is a good graphic design software to use to design logos and other artwork?

What is the skill level needed to use it? Ease of use?

Windows or Mac?

Where can I get it at? How much? Student rates?

Best answer:

Answer by Arunagiri GT
If you want to design a vector based image, then Corel DRAW is one of a good designing software to look for. Vector graphics are nothing but the images / graphics contains lines, circles, triangles, etc. It is also simple to use.

If you like to design a logo with images (bitmap), then you can go for PhotoShop. It is little complicated than CorelDRAW. But wonderful to make excellent results. Lots and lots of filters are available for free download. You can apply filters to get instant effects on your photos.

I’m not sure about the pricing details. You can look for some website to get it.

Know better? Leave your own answer in the comments!

Prepare my business card artwork for PDF (Bleed and Crop Marks) for perfect printing – CorelDRAW 12 and Adobe Illustrator CS3

Prepare my business card artwork for PDF (Bleed and Crop Marks) for perfect printing – CorelDRAW 12 and Adobe Illustrator CS3

Most people in today’s digital world already use some type of graphic software and have some idea of how to put together a business card, flyer, brochure or postcard with with no, or little, problem. The problem is their work is unfinished – unfinished meaning their artwork does not have any needed ‘Bleed’ values and/or ‘Crop Marks’ on the PDF. Both bleed values and crop marks are needed in printing so the printer knows exactly how to handle and cut your product. Have you ever wondered why the graphics are not centered or something important is cut off? The reason is because you, through your artwork have allowed the printers to have thousands of options and ways to print your product. So, basically, it is a gamble to send your artwork to the printers without any bleed values and/or crop marks.

Bleed Values:
Bleed values are needed in order for the printers to print ‘Beyond’ your product size – in result, the the edges of your products are printed with your graphics and colors and not some white line showing up on the face of your printing product. If there is no bleed in the file, the printing shop might or usually ‘Stretches’ the file to the bleed in order to print beyond the entire product. This may function for you, unless of course, the stretch process stretches your important text/graphics and then cuts it off or the artwork is not centered in your end product. Printers have very limited control of the out come without bleed values. I will explain to you quick and easy ways to add bleed values to your artwork.

Crop Marks:
Crop marks are needed for printers to align and center your product and most importantly, where to cut your product. There can be thousands of ways to place your product on the printing plates and thousands of ways to cut your product without crop marks. Using crop marks on your PDF, there is only ONE way to place and cut your product. The odds of “one” are best.

CorelDRAW 12 – Instructions for Bleed and Crop Marks
Most people who read this will already have their artwork done, so let’s move on to make the project flawless with any printer shop. A standard business card is dimensioned at 2″ x 3.5″ -  this will also be the ‘Paper Type/Size of your Corel project in both Method 1 and 2 below. Next is the bleed. At this point, it is important to know the bleed value of your printer shop – some are .25″ and really good printer shops are .125″.

In CorelDRAW 12, there are 2 ways to create bleed.

Method 1 – (Ex. Business Card – finished size: 2″ X 3.5″ with bleed of .125″: 2.125″ X 3.625″)
Add bleed to you output print settings. Go into File, Print Preview, Settings, Layout – Check mark the ‘Bleed Limit’. Keep in mind that you just can’t type in the bleed value into the field. You have to think: The Corel bleed value extends on all 4 sides if the project – If you enter in a bleed vaule of .125″, you will have .125″ on the top, .125″ on the bottom, .125″ on the left and .125″ on the right. So if you do the math: business card dimension 2″ x 3.5″. Height: 2″ + .125″ +.125″ = 2.25″ Wrong! Width – 3.5″ + .125″ + .125″ = Wrong again! You will have to take the bleed value that the printer shop gives you (ex. .125″) and then divide it by 2 (for two sides) = .0625 This is correct! So enter in .0625″ into the ‘Bleed Limit’ field and press ‘apply’ and ‘OK’.

Note: Add guidelines to your project that don’t get printed. This will give you a ‘Guideline’ as to where NOT to put your important text or graphics. With a bleed of .125 the guidelines need to offset the business card dimension by .0625″ which is .125″/2 since we have two sides.  So, the guidelines dimension vertically would be for example: -.0625″, 0.0″, .0625″, 1.375″, 2.0″, 2.0625″. Horizontally is: -.0625″, 0.0″, .0625″, 2.9375″, 3.0″, 3.0625″.

Crop Marks:
Go in File, Print Preview, Settings, Prepress. Check mark the ‘Crop/foldmarks’ and ‘Exterior only’. Press ‘Apply’ and ‘OK’. You now have crop marks on your PDF. Publish to PDF – Done.

Method 2 – make your image sizes to the bleed value. Example: 2.125″ x 3.625″. All we did here was add the bleed value .125 to the width and height of the images. Once you center your images, you now have bleed.

Note: Add guidelines to your project that don’t get printed. This will give you a ‘Guideline’ as to where NOT to put your important text or graphics. With a bleed of .125 the guidelines need to offset the business card dimension by .0625″ which is .125″/2 since we have two sides.  So, the guidelines dimension vertically would be for example: -.0625″, 0.0″, .0625″, 1.375″, 2.0″, 2.0625″. Horizontally is: -.0625″, 0.0″, .0625″, 2.9375″, 3.0″, 3.0625″.

Add your Crop Marks as explained above. Publish to PDF – Done.

Adobe Illustrator CS3 – Instructions for Bleed and Crop Marks
1. Set the Document Setup dimensions to 3.625″ X 2.125″
2. Align all your images to the dimensions above. (keep in mind the Safety Margin. All important text should be in the window of 1.875″ X 3.375″). It is good practice to use ‘Guidelines’ offset-ed .0625 of all 4 sides “IN” of the B-Card size of 2″ X 3.5″.
3. Re-Set the Document setup dimensions back to 3.5″ X 2.0″ and leave the images as they are in step 1. This step will leave the needed Bleed to print perfectly to the edges and the Crop Marks will come in at the document setup dimensions of 3.5″ X 2.0″.
4. Align some of the graphics IF required.
5. Save as PDF – Preset to “Press”. Marks and Bleeds Tab, “All Printer Marks” will be selected and set to Bleed to zero, because no matter how much you play with the bleed, no effect seems to be the result.

Albuquerque Printing business cards flyers brochures postcards

Rodrigo J. Ramirez
Current Status: Owner of Matrix Developers Inc – Printing


Article from articlesbase.com

Flickr Photos and Vimeo Videos as Artwork

Flickr Photos and Vimeo Videos as Artwork
Mining Vimeo, YouTube and Flickr, artists and museums use social sites to provide a direct link to their audiences.
Read more on International Herald Tribune

All Eyes On: Zach Burklund
By: Burgundy Ramsey Student starts T-shirt company with original designs …
Read more on Truman State University Index

What software should I use to create my CD or DVD artwork?

After recording your album, having it mastered and pressed, you head over to your disc duplication facility’s website to place your order. Reading up on the ordering process you notice that you have the option to have artwork printed on the disc face, and can also have tray card and insert artwork printed. This is a great idea, as it allows you to give your project a more professional look and feel. You can either hire a print designer, who will hopefully already know all of the proceeding information. Or you can have a go at it yourself, utilizing one of the many different graphics creation programs available. If you are choosing to create your own artwork, read on.


There are many different programs out there that can be used to create print artwork. One of the more popular programs is Adobe Illustrator. Adobe Illustrator is a vector based drawing program, available for both PC and Macintosh computers. You could also use, CorelDRAW, Paint Shop Pro, or even Adobe Photoshop. I will go into a little bit more detail about what the differences are between some of these programs later on in this article, and why some of them are better suited for print design. Here is a list of 3 terms you should be familiar with before starting your artwork project.


1. Raster Graphics

Raster graphics are also known as bitmap graphics. This form of graphics image is a data file or structure representing a generally rectangular grid of pixels, or blocks of color, on a computer monitor, or other display device. Think of a raster images as a checkers board, with each square (pixel) on the board displaying a different color. This collection of colored dots (pixels), in turn form the full picture. The quality of a raster image is determined by the total number of pixels (resolution), and the amount of information in each pixel. Raster graphics are practical for photographs and photo-realistic images because of the way that they display images. Pretty much all photos you will find on the internet, and all photos you take with your digital camera will be raster images. You may want to use photographs for your CD or DVD’s artwork, but you must mind a few certain things:


A. DPI - I will go into this a bit further in the “DPI” section of this article. In a nutshell, any photograph that you would like to use for print must be 300 DPI (dots per inch) or higher. DPI refers to the density of pixel information in a photograph.


B. Color Mode - There are two basic modes of color: RGB and CMYK. All you need to know really is that all print artwork must be created as a CMYK document, as this refers to the colors of ink that a printer uses to recreate your artwork. If you create your artwork as an RGB document, the printed document will most likely shift in color. For more info on this, please refer to my last article. What do you need to start a CD duplication project?


2. Vector Graphics

Also known as geometric modeling, this form of graphic uses geometrical primitives such as points, curves, and lines to represent images. Instead of displaying blocks of color to represent a photo vector images rely on set points to determine the outline of an object, using mathematical formulas to determine the curve of the lines between said set points. Vector graphics are ideal for simple or composite drawings that do not need to achieve photo-realism. I suggest that you used vector objects for all of your artwork’s areas that are not photos.


3. DPI

Dots per inch, (DPI) is the number of individual dots of ink a printer can produce within a one-inch space. This translates as, the higher the DPI, the sharper the image. Although, most commercial printers will tell you that anything over 300DPI would be considered “print-quality”. I recommend that you make sure that your artwork is at least 300DPI, with 600DPI being the optimal setting for your artwork.


After all this technical mumbo-jumbo, you’re probably scratching your head, still unsure of what program to use to create your artwork. The truth is you can use pretty much any graphics program to create your artwork, providing that you correctly set the DPI and color mode of your document. Personally, I usually use a combination of Adobe Photoshop & Illustrator to do all of my print artwork. I edit all bitmap images in Photoshop and create all of my vector content in Illustrator, combining the two in Illustrator. My advice is now that you have the basic background knowledge, experiment to figure out what works best for you!

Jason Cole and http://www.DiskFaktory.com offer great tips and information regarding CD Duplication. Get info about DVD Duplication as well by visiting http://www.diskfaktory.com/tips/CD-duplication-tutorials.asp

Scanning Artwork

If you need to reproduce images of artwork for display on a web site, or printing, scanning produces far superior results to photographing. Flatbed scanners provide even illumination with no shadows at the edges (often observed in photographs). Similarly, there is no fall off in sharpness at the edges, nor distortion of verticals and horizontals, both of which are frequently created by camera lenses.  

Scanning is quick and easy to do, provided your artwork fits your scanner.

Most home use scanners are A4 size, but artwork can often be larger than A4. The aim of this article is to provide some tips on scanning A3, or A2 artwork using an A4 scanner.

The principle of scanning larger artwork is very simple: you scan in sections, and “stitch” these together in PhotoShop. However, there are a few other steps that need to be taken to produce a seamless image.

1. Before you start to scan, make sure that the paper or board your artwork is made on has four perfectly straight and square edges (this step should only be necessary if the paper has been cut to size, and lost its manufactured uniformity).

2. When placing the artwork on the scanner bed, take great care to line-up the paper parallel with the edge of the scanner bed. If it is a tiny bit out of alignment, the separate scans will not line up perfectly, and rotating the image in PhotoShop will seldom correct alignment discrepancies easily and absolutely.

3. Because the image being scanned is bigger than the scanner bed, it cannot lie perfectly flat (in contact with the glass) at its edges, so you will need to discard a few inches of the perimeter of the scan, which will effectively be “out of focus”, and foreshortened.  

4. You will also need a few inches of overlap between images. It is far easier to join images by overlapping them, rather than attempting to match-up the edges of scans (more about this in a moment).

Point 3 and 4 taken together mean that each segment scanned will be smaller, than A4, and the total number of scans you need to make must be planned accordingly. An A3 size image, for example, will normally require three scans (the left side, the right side, and the middle).

5. Be aware of tonal variations in your artwork. When sections are scanned, each will be exposed according to the requirements of the image (with most home scanners, the level of exposure is automatic). For example, say you are scanning a portrait of a woman with dark hair, and a light dress. The scan of top section of the image will receive stronger illumination than the bottom. This variation in the level of illumination will often manifest in the background colours: they will appear lighter in the top section against the dark hair, and relatively darker in the bottom section against the light dress. If you are scanning an artwork with such tonal variations, you may need to scan more sections, or section the image differently in order to even-out those exposure variations.

There are many different versions of PhotoShop, so I will assume that you have some knowledge of the software’s features, and how to evoke them.

6. Briefly, open the first image, and crop away the edge that was not flat not the scanner bed (if you did not do this at the scanning stage). Adjust the canvas size to accommodate the entire assembled picture.

7. Open the second image (crop if necessary) and drag and drop it into the first. Nudge the second image until it correctly aligns to the first. There are a few things you can do to check alignment. Try holding a pencil point on the screen at some distinctive “check point” in the area of overlap between the two images, and switch one image in and out of view. You should see the “check point” move as you switch between image views if the two are incorrectly aligned.

8. Adjusting the transparency of the second image will enable you to see through it, and this can be a good supplementary method of checking alignments.

9. Always check alignment at several points along the join, since if your scans are out of parallel, images may not align throughout the length of their join. If you encounter this problem, go back to step 2, and re-scan.

10. When you have the images perfectly aligned, erase the edge of the image in the top layer. This helps to soften and mask the join, so that it becomes totally invisible. If your overlap is sufficient, you can selectively erase more or less of the top layer. For example, a join along the line of a dark tree trunk is a good place to make an invisible join.

11. Fine adjustments to the brightness, contrast, and colour balance can iron-out any exposure discrepancies evident at this stage. If you have planned your scan sections well, this step should not be necessary, or require only very minor tweaks.

12. Once you have two images joined, open the third image and repeat step 7 onwards.

13. When you have all of your scans joined, merge the layers into one. Now you can adjust the brightness, contrast, and colour balance of the whole image if it does not accurately match the original artwork (remember in step 11, the was merely to match the brightness, contrast, and colour balance of one image to another).

14. Finally, move to a high level of magnification and thoroughly inspect your image for imperfections (like dust or fibres on the scanner bed). The “healing brush” is a good tool for removing blemishes.

Portraits by John Burton

Portrait artist working mainly from clients’ own photographs.

Preparing Artwork for Print

From the moment you wake up in the morning, you read the newspaper, curse the amount of junk mail on your doorstep, pass billboards on your way to work, hand out your business card, get given a flyer on the high street, pick up a swanky looking brochure at your local shop.

For all these rainforest-depleting elements there was someone who has had to get the job printed.

Whatever you want to print, whether it’s books, brochures, complicated packaging, mailers, ads, posters, flyers, business stationery, signage, free standing display units, point-of-sale, billboards, or even clothing … whether rotogravure, flexographic, offset lithographic, inkjet, lazer or digital printing … from Macs or PCs … it is incredible how just a few basic principles hold true across the broad range of output.

Between the designer’s idea and the finished product there are a host of problems, issues and glitches waiting to be experienced and in ten years I have probably come across most.

There are two basic digital ways for printers to receive artwork. As a PDF (my preference) or everything collected together (usually a QuarkXpress, Adobe InDesign or Illustrator document with images and fonts).

But before this can happen there are many things to check in the document, which could be in Quark, InDesign, or Illustrator.

1. General

Run your eye over the whole job.

Ask questions about the output of it. What is the size/shape? How many pages? Is it a mono job, process job, a spot colour job or process with spot colours? Should any of the colours overprint? Are there any repeated items, like a subheading style that needs to be the same throughout the whole document? Is there a picture style, like a border or an effect, that should be implemented throughout?

Does it look right? Are there any glaring typos? Any glaring widows? Do all the elements look present and correct? Any obvious omissions? A page number, a caption, a background.

2. Size matters

What size is it? Look in Layout > Layout Properties in Quark in File > Document Setup in Illustrator or InDesign. That’s if it is a square or a rectangular shape. If not, you’ll need a cutter guide, if so, see below.

Make sure you know the length of the width and the depth. Most people when giving the size of a rectangle will specify the width first followed by the height. The advertising industry, however, give sizes of their ads with the depth first and the width second. I have absolutely no idea why this is.

If it is a ad, then ask if it is a trim or type area ad. What the difference? A type area ad is like a classified ad: it only has one size a floats on the page in the position where the magazine or newspaper wants it.

How ever larger ads will need three different sizes. These are full page ads, across a double page spread ads or even half or, sometimes, quarter page ads will need trim, bleed and type area. The trim is the most important as it’s the size of the visible area of the ad. The bleed area will be the trim plus an amount (usually 3mm) extending the sides of the ad which run off the page. And the type area (I must confess I love to ignore this) is the space where all information of the ad must be contained. In other words, it gives you margins that you have to use.

3. Type/copy

Although they really are a necessary evil in the modern world, I’m not a huge fan of spell checkers. Remember, if ‘not’ has been spelt “nit”, it won’t pick it up. The Quark spell checker continually flags words that are correct. Remember to have the correct dictionary selected, but even then don’t rely on them.

You can’t beat a good read through by an experienced proof-reader. If you’re not sure about a word or phrase it can usually be sorted out by a simple Google. If you are not sure if the word is American or UK English, arguments can be sorted out at
http://dictionary.reference.com. Which, by the way, if you need inspiration for headings or stand-firsts, use the thesaurus http://thesaurus.reference.com. Also, Mac users have a good dictionary and thesaurus in the widgets with UK and US spellings.

Check if your quotes are curling the correct way. Text pasted or imported from a text editor can strip type of it’s curly quotes and en and em dashes. If your document is full of foot and inch marks you can use the Find/Replace function. Find a ‘ and replace with a ‘, or a ” with a “, and Replace All. They look exactly the same in the Find/Replace panel. But, it works in the document. Use the Find/Replace function to replace your hyphens with en dashes, although skip through checking each one individually, as you don’t want to hyphenate a word with an en dash.

Hyphenation in general should be checked as well. A last minute paste into a new document can re-set the hyphenation settings.

Good old Find/Replace should also be used to eliminated double spaces. Again, skip through one by one, as some un-professionals could have used multiple spaces to indent text in headlines. Of course, check first as some people like double spaces after full stops.

4. Logos

There can be a myriad of rules about the use of a logo. Guidelines can run to dozens of pages. The most important thing to consider, apart from whether it’s the right logo, of course, is the safe area – the area around it that needs to be clear or the distance from the margin or other elements.

Great care should be taken when scaling logos as they should always be in proportion. Clients will be ever so unhappy if it is squashed or stretched. Check the x and y percentages in Quark and InDesign if it is linked. One of the great disadvantages of embedding logos into InDesign or Illustrator layout is that you are unable to tell if it has been anamorphically scaled. Check against the original if you are in any doubt.

5. Fonts

One of the most obvious things to check but also one of the most common problems when sending files to print so … are all the fonts there? Go to Type > Find Font in Illustrator and InDesign and Utilities > Font Usage in Quark. Are there any faux bolded or faux italicised fonts? If there are, replace them with the bold or italic from the font family.

If you have made any changes to a font then check the line breaks and the flow of the copy to make sure it hasn’t created any widows or been altered in anyway. No two fonts are the same so substituting one font for another will always cause changes.

By the way, a widow is the last line of a paragraph that appears alone at the top of a column, an orphan is the first line of a paragraph that appears alone at the bottom of a page. Not a lot of people know that. But, don’t worry about what they are, just check you haven’t got any.

Finally, if you’re really worried and you don’t have too much type, create outlines!

6. Images

Again, it’s an obvious one, check if all the images in the document are present and correct. Go to the Links palette in Illustrator and InDesign and Utilities > Picture Usage in Quark.

After that, check if they are big enough and whether they occupy the correct colour space.

As a general rule the image size in Photoshop should be the same or greater than the size it is to be reproduced with a resolution of 300 dpi. If the picture needs to go larger I would not scale it by more than 130% to avoid pixelation.

If the job is CMYK so should the Photoshop images, go Image > Mode > CMYK, if it is a mono job the Photoshop file should be grayscale or bitmap, spot colour images are very often grayscale or bitmap files coloured up in the output program, Quark or InDesign – otherwise spot colours should be specified in the channels and the image saved as a Photoshop DCS.

I would always use images saved in TIF, EPS or PSD format. You can get away with using JPGs these days, but remember, every time an image is saved as a JPG it loses quality.

7. Colours

90% of the time you will be using process colour. When this is the case go to the colour palette in Quark or the Swatches palette InDesign and Illustrator. Delete all unused colours this’ll make things easier. If there are any spot colours then they should be converted to CMYK. If the spot colour is specific to a client and is their corporate colour then it is important to check the client’s own CMYK breakdown. A breakdown of a Pantone spot colour into the 4 process colours is only an approximation and differs between programs, therefore it should have been agreed beforehand and then implemented throughout the artwork.

If you are printing a special colour make sure it is present in the palette only once. PANTONE 032 CV, Pantone Red 032 CV, and PMS 032 CV is the same colour, as is PMS 032 U, but you only want the printers to charge your client once for the spot colour. If you are unsure which one to go for, choose the colour used in your client’s logo.

If you are using spot colours, should they be set to overprint or knockout? Change this by selecting the item and using the Trap Information palette in Quark and the Attributes palette in InDesign. Even if you are not using spot colours you may want black type to overprint on a tinted or knocked back background. If this is the case then check if it is set to overprint using the same palettes.

8. Bleed

If any element is going straight to the edge of the document it needs to be “bleed off”. The classic amount is 3mm. But some printers and publishers insist on 5mm.

Sometimes you will get a picture that should bleed off the edge of your document. If this is the case you need to go into Photoshop and extend the photo. Double click the locked background layer, Command/Control J to copy it, increase your Canvas Size on the side you want extending, select the bottom layer and extend where necessary using Free Transform, Command/Control T. A bit of blurring may be necessary.

9. Cutter guides

Some jobs may not be square or rectangular and they will need a cutter guide to show the printer where to trim or die-cut. Make sure the cutter guide has a stroke of 0.3 point at the most and it is set to overprint. Choose a random spot Pantone colour for the cutter guide, re-name it “CUTTER GUIDE DO NOT PRINT!” and put a note on the side of the artwork repeating this instruction to the printers.

10. Issues

So, if you have followed the above closely (and I thank you for your patience if you have) then you should have a successfully printed job with no problems … well, you didn’t think it was going to be easy did you?

Over the years the most regularly occurring issues have been:
Large files. Can you scale down your large Photoshop images? Can you cut your Quark or InDesign file down into sections?
Clipping paths, or paths with to many points on them. The worse occurrences of these is when a magic wand selection in Photoshop has been converted to a path and produced an unwieldy long path.
Corrupted fonts. What can you do? Fonts get used, copied and generally pushed around until they just give up. You could always buy a new one!
Corrupt, infected or just inexplicably dodgy elements. Sometimes you have to strip down a job that’s not working properly and re-build it from scratch if it won’t print. Quark can be a buggy program and sometimes there’s a picture box or an element somewhere that some printers just won’t like. And that’s just bad luck!

And so, that’s it! Or is it? Now you have to physically or digitally deliver your artwork to the printers.

Rob Cubbon is a freelance creative artworker and graphic designer for print and web based in London UK.
Please view my portfolio here.
And view my blog here where artworking issues are regularly discussed.

where can I find loyalty free vector artwork (clip art, logos, backgrounds, etc.) without paying fees?